[Sketch Trip America] Episode 18: Lowell and Rose Davis

Carthage

To take care of dinner, we decided to go into town. City of Carthage was only ten minutes away. We were used to camping and preferred making food for the sake of convenience. However, it didn't seem like a good idea to cook near beautiful buildings in Lowell's Red Oak II. Thankfully, earlier, Lowell mentioned a place to eat in town, so we headed straight to there. When we entered Carthage, the reds from the sunset were gone and the yellows were already diminishing, then soon only the blues remained in the sky. Buildings were mostly low-lying, there seems to be nothing protruding above the horizon line. A straight line was drawn across, then there was a blue sky above and the city below it. This very simple silhouette, or rather the simple straight line, expunged the image right out of my head, the image of a city I had that is all vertical and complex.

"Why? Can't a city be flat and horizontal? Should there be buildings that are taller than two stories? This is Missouri!" The city of Carthage proclaimed.

"Sure, of course, there's nothing wrong with a city that is flat. All the better reason that no one will be falling off any tall buildings to die." Perhaps because I drove all day in Missouri where there was no hills and mountains, I admitted at once of Carthage's argument. But I was suddenly curious, too.

"Do you even know what mountains are?" I asked.

"What? Mountains? Are you kidding me? Of course, I've heard of them. Haven't seen one, but heard they're pretty tall. Are they taller than the electric poles?" I suspected the answer to be something like this.

Actually, the only things that were standing taller than the horizon were the electric poles and the restaurant signs.

 

The restaurant we found was a buffet restaurant called Sirloin Stockade. If you ordered a steak, the salad bar was also included. Or one can simply just use the salad bar. Pretty similar to VIPS restaurants that I have been to in Korea. But the price was about one third of what VIPS charged. One sixth, in actuality, since the steaks were twice as big as theirs. It tastes much better, too. You may already know this, but the beef price in Korea is highly inflated. It has a lot to do with the structure of beef distribution. There were so many layers in the system, the end consumers are burdened with all the extra costs. Some says even the president cannot fix the beef distribution problem. Does that mean if the President of Korea can fix the beef problem, there would be nothing he or she cannot fix? If the President can fix beef problem in Korea, that president can achieve the unification of the South and the North probably. In a country with that much economical strength, if an average person was asked what he or she wanted to eat, the answer would be beef. There is a popular comedy skit in Korea and the line always end up as, "if you make a lot of money, you go buy beef and eat it." It is pretty sickening to think that the people are being ripped off by systematic fraud in Korea. It is not just the problem with beef for sure, but now that I'm sitting with a scrumptious piece of beef steak in front me that is also inexpensive, I couldn't help but was reminded of the sad reality of my home country. It certainly is going backward nowadays. After eating a full buffet meal with two steaks, the price we paid was $31. 





      

Boots Court Motel

Boots Court Motel is a famous Route 66 spot. It happened to be on the way to the restaurant. One cannot miss it while going through Carthage traveling on Route 66. It is a place of history and nostalgia for travelers of Route 66. It first opened in 1939 and still operating. A classic example of Streamline Modern Architecture which is a late type of the Art Deco, with curving forms and long horizontal lines.

'Air-Conditioned', 'Radio in Every Room'. When was the time to brag about such things…? It actually would be right now. To have a radio from many decades ago in every room in the year 2014 is certainly something to brag about. If the trend is over then it's out-dated. But if it's well past time, then it becomes worthwhile again. Such is  life.

I found pictures online and the radios in the rooms looked like these. It's more than what they can brag about. If the furniture and objects in the rooms reminded us a certain time period that had passed, then it was a place of memories and nostalgia. Boots Court was part of that history. After driving several hundred miles, take shower and    pour a glass of beer then listened to Chuck Berry coming out of that old radio, it was a fantastic day.

Get Your Ki-cks on the Rou-te sixty si-x.

When we came back to Red Oak II, it was well past 9:30. Even at this late hour, Lowell and Rose had invited us into their house. In Lowell's studio, we got to see Lowell's picture books, paintings in various publications, news articles about Lowell, other numerous paintings, and a glass case filled with the miniature figurines that made Lowell famous worldwide.

Lowell's figurines that portray life in Missoura brought him a great success and he toured the world with them. With the money he bought the old houses and store buildings from his old town and moved to Red Oak II. Some of the houses in town are actually owned by other people and families. There were many more exciting plans ahead for this charming town. We talked and shared stories with Lowell and Rose about many different things. The night was getting deep Red Oak II.  

End of Episode 18.

*         *         *

In the next episode, we enter Lowell's General Store building to stay for the night. At first, Sumi and I thought an antique building from a Western movie, but as the time nears midnight, the General Store turns into the place of the living dead.  



 

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[Sketch Trip America] Episode 17: Red Oak II, the Living-History Village

Red Oak II - Part 2



 

    The family of animals followed around Sumi. She always attracted animals wherever she went. She seemed to know how to get them come to her at will. I don't know how she does it, but as long as I love Sumi, I should be able to get near animals, too. Growing up, I used to get bitten or attacked by dogs. Since I met Sumi, such things never happened to me. Therefore, it's obvious that Sumi protects me from animals, too. She is just like Tarzan in the jungle. Wait, does that make me Jane?

While I was daydreaming myself as Jane being safe from attacks of jungle animals, Sumi was still exchanging vigorous greetings with the cat. Then I noticed the turkey twins slowly disappearing behind the barn. It was clearly the sign of a suspicious activity which was about to happen. Are they going to transform now? Ha! I immediately followed them behind the barn. But, there was no sign of them anywhere but the yellow leaves fallen on the green grass. I kept searching for the trace of the turkey twins in vain. All I found was the sculpture of a fairy tale cottage in the middle of a big grass yard. I was surprised to find this space behind the barn. So I stood there inhaling the aroma of rich soil and grass for a while.

     Just when I thought to myself that turkeys didn't matter any more, I saw someone in blue shirt walking out from a tree shadow across the grass field. The same blue as the head of the turkey! And a pair of blue jean! One turkey for the top and the other for the bottom. Two turkeys put together, that's just about the size of a person! The time is 5:50 PM. It was time for castle guards to go home, and enough time for the spell to break. The man in blue shirt strode toward me just like what the animals did before. Then he stopped right in front of me just like the turkey twins.

Then he put a pipe in his mouth. Something he couldn't do while being a turkey. Pooof! He blew out a puff, then glanced at me. Is he trying to suggest that he can talk now?

"It's really nice here." I spoke to him first.

Turkey man nodded without a word. He might need more time since he just turned human.

"Where are you from?"

"New Yo…, no, I mean, I'm from Korea, traveling on the route 66." Phew, I almost died in the next scene.

"Nice trip. I live here."

"Yes, I know, I've been watching you the whole time."

"What?"

"I mean…., oh, never mind." He must not remember it when he was a turkey.

Some awkward moments passed and I spoke again.

"My name is Jingoogk."

"I'm Lowell. Nice to meet you."

"Lowell? You're Lowell?"

"Yes…?"

I'm sorry to say, but I wasn't thinking that Lowell was a living person. Why was that? I don't know. I might have thought that the story Sumi read to me was from a long time ago. 'Lowell created the village and the descendants are running it.' That's how I understood it I guess. Anyway, I was very happy to meet him in real person. I had so much questions to ask him including the work on stone pavement in the front of the village. Because I was silent in my own stupor and oblivion, Lowell walked away from me and toward Sumi who was still playing with the cat.

"Take him with you."

"Huh? Is this your cat?"

"Yes, he is, and this is my home."

"Ah, you must be Mr. Lowell Davis."

Sumi obviously knew that Lowell was alive and well. Why did I have such weird thought? Strange...

*     *     *

Fences, eaves, gallery and low stonewalls ran intricately from a house to house, front door to a garden, storage house to barn and the smithy to stable and chicken coop. Each aged more than two generations. There were someone's sculptures adorning in-between the buildings. It was the result of one man's work spanning a long time. Lowell took us into the world that was two generations before us that he revived himself. It was way before when stuff made in factories engulfed every space in our life, machines finished off creating things instead of human hands. It was the time in the world when human and nature worked hand in hand.

    Lowell gave us a quick tour of the ground and went inside a house through a low gallery and eaves. There were many drawings and paintings of villages and towns. He showed us one of the pictures and said it was the village we were in right now. We didn't see this part, yet. Does that mean there are much more to this place than we'd seen so far? I felt an urge to see everything that was here. Can we see it in time? It seemed unlikely. I tried to measure the possibilities in more realistic sense. Even if we look around until dark we couldn't cover everything. The sun would set soon and it would take more than an hour to look for a place to camp. To come back here from the campground, we would lose several hours traveling back and forth. It'd be nice to find a place to sleep within few minutes of distance. Oh a whim, I asked Lowell if we could camp anywhere on the grass or an empty lot. We wouldn't even mind the barn, either. It'd be just like in the movies.

Without hesitation, Lowell told us to stay at the general store building in the village. There's a bathroom in the back so it would be more convenient for us he said. Then, he invited us into his home and showed his artworks in the studio. He then introduced us his wife Rose. After showing us the building we would be staying, we planned to meet again after dinner. There was a small bridge between Lowell's house and the general store building we would be staying at.

 

The general store building looked just like buildings in Western movies. It looked older than a hundred years. We were completely ecstatic at this point. We not only saved a great deal of time, but were about to embark on a full 24 hours of adventure in this awesome place. Sumi was already excited about the prospect of seeing a beautiful early morning scenery. I got excited about the sunset. It would be beautiful all hours of the day and night here. Even if it rained or snowed, or rained and snowed all at the same time, it would've been great. We were so grateful to Lowell and Rose for providing us a place to stay. Now not having to go anywhere else tonight, we went straight out to explore this amazing Red Oak II until it was pitch black. 

Pssst... did you know Jingoogk's blog is also in Korean?
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[Sketch Trip America] Episode 16: Red Oak II, a Jewel of Route 66

Red Oak II - Part 1

Out from Spencer, the country road merged onto the main road, and the traffic had picked up. This somehow made me forget where we were headed next. Let's drive! I stepped on the gas while Sumi was browsing something on her phone.

"Lowell Davis is an artist and sculptor. He grew up in the town of Red Oak, Missouri. After the WWII, people began to move to the big cities in search of good life. After some sixty years later, when he returned to his boyhood home from one of those "good life" careers in the big cities, most of these rural communities had become ghost towns. That's when he began buying the homes and businesses of his beloved Red Oak and moving them twenty three miles to his Fox Fire Farm near Carthage, Missouri and restoring them to their original grandeur a place known as Red Oak II."

Sumi read out loud. Sounded interesting. Why are you telling me this by the way? Sumi reminded me that it was the place Gary at the Gay Parita Sinclair had told us to go to. Oh, right. The problem with fast road is that it makes you forget and pass everything. The photos of the place looked good, too, Sumi said. She also said we have to make a right hand turn to go there.

"When?"

"Right now! Turn right, then stop!" she yelled.

Screeech! I stopped the car as Sumi instructed me to, and we were at an entrance of a narrow road between rows of cornfields. Just like when we entered Spencer, it didn't look very welcoming so I asked Sumi for a confirmation.

"You sure this is the road?"

"Look, there's a sign for it."

'Red Oak II, MISSOURA'

The signage was intriguing enough to make me want to go and find out about Red Oak II. But there seemed to be no end to the cornfield. It was five o'clock in the afternoon. We should look for a campground or something to spend the night and this road would put us far away from the main route. I hesitated for a minute and asked Sumi again for her opinion. Her answer was very straight forward.

"Let's go. When are we going to come back here, again?

"Right. Let's go, then."

When not sure whether to do it or not, doing it is the best option, if it was during a road trip. I saw many times in the movies, the narrow roads between cornfields. I wanted to drive on one once. This was the sort of road.

"What movie was it?  Jeepers Creepers?"

We briefly joked and entered the road between the cornfields. Cornstalks in wind made swashing sound.

Within three to four minutes, there was another rooster shaped signage pointing to the right. 'Red Oak II, 1 Mile' This rooster signage was also very intricate. We made a right turn and kept driving through the cornfield.

Another two minutes, there was a wide gate in the middle of the cornfields. Considering the country road we traveled to get here, the gate was surprisingly large and fancy-looking. The columns on either side of the gate was stone-walled. One side of the gate was covered with ivy vines and the other was iron wall which was mosaicked with circular metal parts. The two signs that we saw must've been made by the same person who made this gate.

We parked the car and looked for a booth to pay entrance fee. Well, we couldn't find it, so we decided to look around first. Right inside the entrance way, there was a chestnut-red-colored two story building with green roof. It was tidy and clean and most of all, a tree with a large trunk created perfect shade at the front door of the house. The houses were said to be moved here from a nearby town, but trees were not likely. The path from the front door of the house to the front yard was also perfectly laid out that in the late afternoon, it went completely under a shade from the tree. It is 5:40 PM now in summer time, there should be enough hours to enjoy oneself under this cool shades. The stone patio area seemed to have been hand built from scratch. A professional touch. The design and surrounding space were also excellent. Wait, the outside area couldn't have been moved here. The old town would've been few generations before us, and couldn't have had designs like this back then. Unless Frank Lloyd Wright had designed it.

On our way here, I thought, maybe they say they had moved the buildings from the old town, but really, just copied the exterior shapes. However, as soon as I laid my eyes on the first house, I fell in love with Red Oak II. I asked Sumi what she thought of the place. She said she loves not only the houses, but the garden, sculptures, and every little objects in and around the place. She said she wanted to build our gardens back home just like these. She must really like it, but I quickly regretted that I had asked her. When we return from our trip, there will be a lot of work.

As I was worrying about the yard work back home, a cat strode straight toward me. It was coming toward us so rightfully that I naturally thought this cat must be the owner of this place. A spell made him turn into a cat during the day, but he still has to greet the visitors even if he was in the body of a cat. Sumi shook hands with the cat holding its paw, rubbed on the back. They greeted each other excitedly.

Then, suddenly, there were two turkeys appeared in front of us. They walked around as if they had their arms crossed with each other. They looked alike like twins. They strode around even more rightfully than the cat. If the owner of this place was under a spell, the turkeys were more likely than the cat.

A welcome greeting by these animals led us toward the inside of a farm, which was on the right side from the entrance. In a few steps, a white dog with black patches also came out to greet us. We've been wandering around here for over twenty minutes now and we hadn't met anyone other than few tourists just like us. If not the tourists, the animals were all we had met. Wait a minute, the entire family must've turned into…. We looked around the farm houses guided by the family that had turned into the animals under a spell. The cat meowed, turkey twins gabo-gaboed, and the dog woofed while busy showing the farm ground to us. We couldn't quite understand them well enough, but few things became clear from the body languages. 'It's very nice to meet you.' 'Please, take your time and look around.' 'The spell will break soon, give us some time, okay?'

This is the end of Episode 16. In episode 17, we finally find out the shocking truth about the turkeys and who the owners of the Red Oak II really are.




Read in Korean http://blog.naver.com/hwangjinkook/220247056005

[Sketch Trip America] Episode 15: Treasure Map of Route 66

Gary drew on the map the road that goes east and west as north and south. Without the '96 West' on the map, it would've been hard to find the cardinal direction. For the town's people, a place is where one reaches by following a road. Who would bother with azimuth or cardinal points? Those are for people who don't know anything.

From Sinclair, Sumi and I began searching for a town called Spencer according to the map Gary drew with his shaking hands.

Ignore any new and straight road!

Straight line is boring!

Crinkum crankum find only the old ones!

From this town to next!

Like the treasure map of a pirate captain!

If we followed the map, there would be an old landscape and abandoned shops, a town filled with treasures that had been out of fashion for over fifty years. For anyone who wants to get there, you must give up speed. The right turn into Spencer was narrow and dark, it seemed like once you miss this turn, you'd end up in a roundabout for a long time. If we weren't going thirty miles per hour, we could've easily missed the turn. Not so much because it was hard to see, but because we normally wouldn't be so tempted to make the turn. We were humming along and wouldn't care if we made circles all day, so we happily made the turn onto the road to Spencer. Soon, inside the road, a bridge with paint stripped halfway appeared.

'Johnson Creek Bridge(1926) is a stately steel truss bridge located near the hamlet of Spencer.'

It was written in the book we just bought at Sinclair. Very simple editing of the book with only pictures and dates. It served  the purpose within less than an hour from the point of purchase. "It already paid for itself $1 worth out of $35," I said to Sumi. From the name of the bridge, I figured the small stream running under the bridge was Johnson Creek, and the bridge was the gateway to the small town Spencer. It wasn't much of an attraction coming in through the winding road, but with the bridge, suddenly created a wonderful view. However, this intimate landscape was also the reason for its disregard. The highway that opened just a few miles away cut off traffic into this town. This town didn't create enough reasons to be stopped in place of giving up speed.

All it was in hamlet of Spencer was a small store building. In the boom of travel on the Route 66, it would've been all travelers' stopping point with all the necessities like gas station, food store, barber shop, and even post office. It must've been hard to compete with the big highways. The entire Route 66 was losing its charm because of the highways, a small town would've suffered the most. The outcome from the battle was a few random visitors like us holding a map which was drawn by a shaky hand. Sumi and I started collecting the remnants of few things that went out of fashion long ago. Pepsi Cola adverts that looked to be over sixty years old, gas pump, and building facade were collected in our cameras. The desolate surrounding was collected in our eyes. And the things that we couldn't collect by the two methods, we collected in our hearts--curiosity, awe, and excitement of the things that are two generations before us.

The roads in the past connected a town to town, but the highway system made towns disappear. Then the road that connected the towns also disappeared. A generation had passed and even highways became the thing of the past. Then a new stream of travelers began driving on this road instead of on fast highways. We were one of them. "You are once again being acknowledged and remade now. Hurry and get up. Make a new album, a movie, or anything. Here is the contract." I wanted to tell the old and run-down refrigerator and gas pump and the barbershop sign that people started to come around here again.

When the next traveler crossing the Johnson Creek bridge was in sight, we got in our car and on the road again, with the map that Gary drew in our hand.

   

  

    

[Sketch Trip America] Episode 11: The Genuine Route 66

The Genuine Rt 66 begins: 

Day 5. Missouri

6:40 AM. I was woken up by fresh and crisp early morning air.  I went to sleep in my underwear with no blanket but this morning, I found myself under a blanket. Sumi must've covered me up, but she wasn't there next to me. She must be up and doing something already. It is not uncommon that I wake up and Sumi is not around. She tends to get out and do something as soon as she opens her eyes in the morning, such as walking, taking photographs or etc.

I, on the other hand, was still wrapped in the blanket in the tent, while looking outside through the entrance. Beyond this thin layer, morning light was getting brighter and there were various bird calls, meandering fog, sweet smelling soil, and pungent smell of phytoncide that surrounding trees emit. This mixture of air was seeping through tent interior. Even a five star hotel couldn't provide this. I was beginning to feel the positive aspects of camping. If you set aside little bit of effort and discomfort, it is simply much better to camp than to stay at a conventional lodging. Fresh air and the positive energy from the forest began to enter my body. I may be turning into a god of the forest. My body started to elevate into the air. This must be levitation that people talk about. I was afloat with the air of the forest, then I heard a voice coming from Sumi.

"What'cha doing sitting in your undies?"

My short levitation ended with her voice and from god's realm I landed back in the human realm. Swoop and squat. Sumi had gone to take shower when the bathroom was empty.

We had breakfast with Doen-Jang Jjigae(bean paste stew) and beef chili paste and made coffee afterwards. Daily routines that happen in the mornings in the woods are also the best part of camping. While I was thinking this, stars and stripes pattern on the paper cups came into my sight. Half jokingly, I said to Sumi,

"Oh, this is so American!"

Sumi replied piteously.

"There's nothing un-American about any of these."

Right. But then, I realized I hadn't seen much of Korean national flag patterns on anything when I was in Korea. Growing up, national flag was something that hung only from the flag pole. To me, it was refreshing to see American flag pattern on various uniforms of American Olympic athletes. American flag patterns on paper cups reminded me that I was far away from Korea.

For our morning work, Sumi painted the signs she saw yesterday and I drew Sumi in the campground as the backdrop. It was a beautiful sight.

"Now, this is truly American" I said jokingly, again.

"Stop it, you're a yankee to the bones." Sumi laughed hilariously then continued.

"You know, I bet Americans wouldn't know what I meant by yankee."

She's right. When you say, 'yankee' in Korea and 'yankee' in America, they mean two different things.

Yankee

The term 'Yankee' has many origins, but one notable is the Dutch origins. Since there were many Dutch colonists in New England, the Dutch given names Jan("John") was common. Then this had grown to include non-Dutch colonists as well in the area. Now, the term Yankee is to call people from New England or the Northeast, but outside the US, Yankee simply means anyone that's from America. Someone from the South or the Midwest might be taken aback if called a Yankee, but outside the US, a Yankee just means any American. However, this can sometimes be used as somewhat of a derogatory word, so it should be used cautiously.    

 

Now that we started talking 'American' things, I'd like to talk about a real American camping habit. In last year's Blue Ridge camping and this year's trip, I've noticed that Americans love to make camp fires. Even in the middle of summer, people get up in the morning and start the fire in the pit. As soon as there's a fire, everyone gathers and starts chatting around it. It is almost as if it were a ritual, or right out of movies when cowboys camp out in the wild west and the first thing they do is make a fire. Maybe it is the remnants from the old culture, or simply that people watched too much western movies like me. Making fire when camping must be a code engrained in genes of camping and leisure in every American.

After finishing some creative work, we started to pack around 10 AM. We continued to pack down stuff every day and after the fourth day, it was at an optimal level. Efficient packing and daily schedule gave us valuable time in the morning to do more artwork. Within an hour, we left Meramec campground. Good-bye, Meramec Cavern campground! You were alright, just a little disorderly. Kids ran around 'till very late and the guy who laughed silly through the night was pretty funny, though. Thanks to all, anyway!

We got on the Interstate 44. This section of Route 66 runs side by side with the Interstate for a while so we decided to cover more distance and enjoy the view of Rt 66.

Once out of city, highways look very different from the highways in Korea.

"When do we get on highway?"

"We are already on a highway."

"Really? This isn't a regular road?

When I first came to the States, I had asked Sumi this question. Being used to highways in Korea, to me, highways should be at least 4-5 lanes and covered in think concrete chunks. However, the highways in the States were mostly like the one I'm on now. Near cities, highways look like that of Korea, but once past the city boundary, instead of concrete median, a wide lawn spreads in between the lanes going opposite ways. There are usually two lanes on both ways, one for driving and the other for passing. Most drivers seemed clear on this concept and usually kept the passing lane open and drove on the right lane. Sumi said that people are better about the passing lanes in the eastern US in general, probably because there are less lanes on highways than the west or midwest. People know it by heart that the rules are there to their advantage. On the other hand, places like L. A., the drivers are relatively more reckless in changing lanes and driving on all 6-7 lanes all together. Shortage of something made the standard high for some people, I thought to myself. Sumi, of course, didn't forget to mention that Korean drivers are no better than L.A. drivers. I remembered a news commentary from few years back that people that do not know the concept of the passing lane outnumber the ones who know this basic driving rule.

Though, only two lanes, driving amongst calm drivers next to grassy knolls made me enjoy the drive. But when noon came, strong rays started to heat up the pavement.

The temperature in the Midwest was getting over 100 degrees and we'd been driving several hours on sun-scorched highway. Our destination wasn't anywhere near. Highway was boring to drive in the same way as in the US or in Korea, and our sweat-soaked bodies under afternoon heat had long forgotten about the fun or excitement of a road trip. Then, suddenly, a couple biker women appeared before our eyes. They had matching jackets and their long pony tails flowing in wind behind them like scarves. They've got to be the Rt 66 travelers. Their flowing pony tails perked us up instantly and we were reminded again that we also are travelers on the Route 66.

One thing we got from this boring drive that had some value was this Rt 66 map of Missouri from the visitor center. All sorts of places of interests was listed in detail. It is hard to get this kind of information elsewhere. Another thing we got from our highway drive was….

This half-burnt and acned face that I got from driving from east to west for few days. We alternated driving, but the side that exposed to the sun was always the left side of face because we were heading little bit southwest.

And because Sumi insisted on wearing tank top or sleeveless shirt, she also got half of her face, left arm and knee burnt.

We couldn't just head back east to avoid getting burnt only on the left side. So we endured it and kept on driving under the scorching afternoon heat. Sumi had tuned on NPR and in the radio show, they said the nude models in Paris were on strike. In Paris, the city operates figure drawing classes for its people, so the models were hired by the government. I wondered what it would be like to see nude models on strike, while we drove on Interstate 44. We also couldn't have imagined that in a few hours from here that we'd be pulled into a magic of this jewel-like place on Rt 66.

Next episode in [Sketch Trip America] will feature Gary, the guide to Route 66 and his mom and pop store Sinclair.

 

Visit Jingoogk's original blog in Korean here: 

http://blog.naver.com/hwangjinkook/220169895635 

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