Sunday, October 26, 2014

[Sketch Trip America] Episode 10: St. Louis and the Melting Pot is still melting










Upon leaving the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge, we entered city of St. Louis. We briefly missed Route 66 and went a bit north somehow. The roads were terrible. There were potholes and deep cracks everywhere and this turtle back of a road went on for a good while. Sumi said looking at the map on her phone that the place of Michael Brown shooting wasn't far from here.

Ferguson is a northern suburb of St. Louis. It is a place with chronic condition of discrimination against Blacks. Recently when Michael Brown, an unarmed black teenager was shot 6 times and killed by a white police officer, resulted a national outrage and protests. Also near Ferguson, a black man stole two cans of soda from a convenient store and was quickly surrounded by police officers. He then approached police yelling 'shoot me,' and the police really shot him several times in broad daylight. He also was unarmed. Someone on the street filmed the whole thing on his camera phone and I'd seen the video right before we left for the trip. Ferguson tragedy once again put American society face a turmoil stemming from deep rooted racial discrimination.
In twenty minutes or so later, we happened to drive by Forest Park, near city of St. Louis. All of a sudden, the rocky roads became smooth as if they were ironed. And unlike the northern neighbors, streets and lamps were adorned with flowers and most of passersby were whites. It was a stark difference to us as travelers that got off Route 66 briefly and drove through St. Louis from north to south.



Mom and Pop Store


Mom-and-pop store means a business that is run by mom and dad. In other word, a small, independent, family-owned business. One of the reasons Route 66 brings out certain nostalgia is because there are many mom and pop stores along Route 66. The section of Route 66 (now called Chippewa Street) that passes through St. Louis, there were two notable mom and pop stores. The Donut Drive-In that opened in the 1950's and Ted Drewes Frozen Custard opened in 1929. Perhaps, the fact that they are well and prosperous within the competition with those large franchised businesses also pique interest in people.








'Open' neon sign is lit. The friend we're going to meet in L.A. recently had a donut shop in Dallas, Texas just a year ago. It wasn't a franchise but a mom and pop store which he and his wife made all donuts themselves starting in the crack of dawn. He once told me that the people in Texas prefer donuts made in small stores than big chains like Dunkin Donuts. He believes the donuts made in far away factories can't compare in taste to his donuts made from scratch all in his store. I agree with him. He also described the scenes of his store in early mornings. When he and his wife make donuts from dawn and turn on the neon sign when it's still dark, it meant the freshly made donuts are ready. And because Dallas was so flat, people can see the light and come to buy his donuts from far away. Now, looking at the donut store that existed over 60 years and the tall sign standing above the roof, I thought that people in St. Louis also like donuts from mom and pop store and the owner of this store started to make donuts from the crack of dawn every day, just like my friend.






Ted Drewes is popular for its frozen custards. Until then, I thought custard was a bread with a cream filling. It was because of a well-known bakery brand in Korea that I thought such. It turned out the custard that I knew was just bread, but the cream filling itself was called custard. When I found this out from Sumi, I felt empty for being misinformed about custard, but was satisfied for learning it before I was dead. Puuhaha! I could only laugh a hollow laugh. Sumi expected to taste a good custard at this store, but when we saw the long line, gave up at once. I think we're not, so called foodies.






Ted Drewes' custard is supposed to be so thick that it doesn't spill when you turn it upside-down. I wondered what that meant exactly, in the world of custard. Instead of tasting it, we only gathered facts about the store being started as an ice cream truck in 1919 and now Ted Drewes, Jr is running it, then left for our next destination, Meramec Campground.






On our way to Meramec campground, Joongdeok(aka JD), the friend in LA, who used to have a donut shop in Dallas had called. JD asked, "I heard you started your trip, when are you going to get to LA?" I answered him, "We're on our way. It'll take about 10 days." JD told us to give him a ring 2-3 days before arriving in LA and I told him that we'd call 7-8 days later. After hanging up the phone, 'What a strange conversation,' I thought. Back in Korea, we used to live 5 minutes apart by walking. Now I'm telling him that it would take 15 days to get to his house to see him. And he says, "Okay, give me a call 3 days before." What a strange situation. 'America is so big,' I talked to myself, incoherently.






Meramec Campground was privately run. Basic camp site was $18 and site with electrical hook-up was $25. Usually, electrical hook-ups are for the RV's, but anyone can use it if you're particularly in need of electricity. Usually, other campgrounds are shaped in circles, but Meramec campground was a large grass field with sites scattered all over. There were many campers already there to enjoy the weekend.


Some photos of Meramec Campground.












We pick a spot under a big tree. The picnic table was moved from an area several feet away. It is all right to move tables little bit as long as it is not tied down. We like to put the table close by so we can shorten the distance between tent and table. It makes it efficient for us to go back and forth between working, cooking, and going into the tent. We weren't going to make camp fire or use barbecue grill, so we put everything even tighter than usual.





Inside of our tent. For a long trip, we've set up a few rules as below:

Tent.
We need to move to a new location every day, so we wanted to minimize the stress from having to set up and take down the tent. We had the specific needs in mind while shopping for tent. Now it only takes a minute for us to pitch the tent and another minute for taking it down. Tent is from Kelty, for 4 persons and 3 seasons.

Inside the tent.
Let's put only necessary things in the designated places inside the tent. It's faster to pack up that way, too.

Pillows.
For a good rest everyday, we should have the most comfortable pillow.  So we brought our pillows from home that we've been using.

It's nothing too grand, but we planned to keep everything comfortable and also simple. I thought it was important for a long trip such as ours.





After pitching our tent, we started to paint and write, then cooked up a spicy stew with sausages and veggies. Looking at the stew inside the pot, I suddenly remembered the streets in St. Louis.


A melting pot!






America is often mentioned as a good model of melting pot with all its different races, ethnicities, and cultures mixed together. However, to me, it was a melting pot that still hadn't been successfully melted, as long as there were flawed ideas of superiority and aversion to integrate. 

However, at Meramec campground, these people with different skin colors, races and ethnicity, were all melting away, having sweet and restful Labor Day weekend and enjoying the pleasure of camping outdoors. We were also melting together with them in good harmony and our fourth day of the trip was slowly closing down.







To go to Jingoogk's original blog in Korean --> http://blog.naver.com/hwangjinkook/220160154000





Friday, October 24, 2014

[Sketch Trip America] Episode 9: Route 66, Mississippi River and the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge



August 30th. Day 4 of the cross-country America trip.




  





Brrrrrng, brrrrng, brrrng, booang! I woke up by the combination of noises from the air conditioner and trucks driving by. It was 9 AM. Past couple days, I woke up by the sound of birds chirping, fresh air and gentle breeze on my face. When I opened the zipper on the tent, fresh air from the forest at dawn poured in along with the sound of leaves rustling, chipmunks scurrying about, and morning dew dripping on the tent fly. This morning, the air conditioning unit, refrigerator, someone taking shower from next door woke me up and when I opened the door, car noise from the highway and the hot rays of the sun all poured in. My ear and breath became stuffy at once. Inkeeper Motel is actually a decent place for its location and price. What I'm trying to say is the difference between the mid-city lodgings verses camping in the woods. Oh, wait! It was actually not 9 AM, but 8 AM. We'd already come to a different time zone. It is 9 AM in New York and 8 AM in Illinois.
One more negative aspect about waking up in motels is that we cannot make our own breakfast. At a campground, we could make anything that pleased us whether it's omelets or jjigaes(spicy Korean stews) on our little gas stove. But we can't cook in motels. Some people try to make small things like ramen noodles but it's against policy for most places and it's not even that convenient. So we decided to find a restaurant nearby.








Sumi asked what I'd like, so I said Soondaeguk(Korean sausage soup)! I know I can't have it but I yelled it out anyway. But Sumi ordered something at a Mexican restaurant and it looked incredibly similar to Soondaeguk. Sumi thought maybe spicy Mexican soup might be similar to Korean soup and she was right. She said that if we want to eat something proper, then we should order with proper pronunciation. I completely agreed with her.
Caaaallldoooo ddde Pppoyyyoooo!
I don't know which part of that is chicken and which part is the soup, but I tried my best to sound like a Mexican nobleman. Sumi ordered Huuuuuevooooos Rrrrrrancherrrrrooos.








Thanks to my wonderful pronounciation, the soup served was just like what I would have for a hangover in Korea. A spicy chicken soup with a bit of sour after taste. I emptied the entire bowl and started the day fresh. Sumi's international sense worked nicely this time. I also learned that Huevos Rancheros is breakfast burrito. Once again, I don't know which part of those words is breakfast and which part is burrito.









Route 66 was disconnected between Hamel and Chain of Rocks Bridge in Illinois. We might have missed it but we decided to take 157 instead and it quickly continued onto Route 66. We tried to stay off Interstate highways as much as we can. 
Now that we got on Route 66, the plan was simple: Just follow Route 66 signs. And stop, if we see old hidden jewels with stories along the road. That was all. What we look at when we pass it and what impressions we keep solely depended on each of us. For us, we often used Road strippers, uh, I mean Roadtrippers. The first thing to look at was Old Chain of Rocks Bridge.



   





Though, the center of Route 66 is always the road itself. I started to get this feeling that the scenery along the route and driving through it was the prime bases of traveling Route 66. Even if there were many roadside attractions dotted along it, if the road itself was boring, then it wouldn't mean much to travel the route. There's a saying, it takes more than pearls to make a necklace. Route 66 could be the golden thread that strings up all these old beads. It was simply amazing that this golden thread would continue all the way to L.A. 
Today, Route 66 started with sights as below.












This used to be a drive-in theater, but only the signage remained.












There are usually multitude of electric poles lined up alongside Route 66. Route 66 being one of the first road crossing the country, it makes complete sense. The first road that crossed the country would've needed electricity first and foremost and the most convenient place to put the electric poles would've been by the roadside. This also meant the Route 66 was once the most busiest streets in America.



     




A biker with a stretched out undershirt. He must live a block away from the Route 66 which is all bikers' dream road. It is a fantasy for others but for this fantastic biker, a daily route. That's why he's dressed so casually. His undershirt may be stretched out, but his heart burns like a flame.







Soon, we crossed a bridge and we shouted, "Old Chain of Rocks Bridge! Yeah!" But something felt strange.







To tell you the truth, all we knew about the bridge was that it was an old iron bridge and we get on it right before reaching St. Louis. From what we saw, this bridge wasn't much to look at.







Of course, it wasn't the old bridge, it was merely the passage way to get to the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge. We also found out later that Old Chain of Rocks Bridge crosses Mississippi River and the center of the bridge is the border between Illinois and Missouri State, and the whole history that followed.








The Chain of Rocks Bridge

In 1894, Water Plant was built by St. Louis Waterworks.
World's largest filter plant was added in 1915.
A Bridge was built next to it in 1929.
1,632 meters, the longest bridge in America.
In the 1930's, Bypass US 66 was designated over the bridge.
The Chain of Rocks Bridge closed in 1970.
Listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2006.
The Old Chain of Rocks Bridge reopened for pedestrian and cycling use since 1998.



Beside this chronological history, what I was curious about was the 'Chain or Rocks' part. It didn't seem like the shape or the mechanism of building the bridge. However, what I have found through some searches on the net, it was the natural shape of the river bed under the bridge. This unusual part of the Mississippi River had 17-mile shoal, or series of rocky rapids, called the Chain of Rocks. Multiple rock ledges just under the surface made this stretch of the river extremely dangerous to navigate. The bridge was built right next to it, hence the Chain of Rocks Bridge. So I understand the name part. Now I must see the Chain of Rocks as well.








Of course, one can look at the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge and also cross it on foot. It is a great looking old bridge, well-matched the mighty Mississippi River.







However, the origin of the name, Chain of Rocks can't be seen any more. In the 1960's, a low-water dam was built covering the Chain of Rocks. Only the fast currents on the surface of the river give hints to what it used to be.



Pictures below are of the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge:








Dense greens on the Mississippi River banks.









There's a red object far out on the bridge.





Water plant sends water to filter plant. We can see the fast current above the low lying dam.





Illinois-Missouri border





The red object from far away turned out to be an old truck.
A family is looking out to the river from it. So we stopped and looked, too.











An inevitability stopped everyone at the same place. And we all looked out on the same spot. Wherever you came from, whatever you were doing before, looking out the Mississippi River from the old red truck on the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge was the final rest to dry the sweat off our foreheads. It was a melody from a banjo that reminded of old country home, and the straw hat of Huckleberry Finn. There was nothing else beside that on the bridge. 





To read Jingoogk's original blog in Korean : http://blog.naver.com/hwangjinkook/220147293480






































Saturday, October 4, 2014

[Sketch Trip America] Episode 8: Enter, Route 66!




We were happy to see the corn dragon in anticipation of the end of the cornfield. However, the real reason was that we had bought some beer and steak for camping tonight. A fire-breathing dragon. A dragon is a carnivore so it should know how tasty steak is. And maybe it will blow a warm firey breath to make our steak more delicious. And a cold beer on top of that! A true happiness! We ate sandwiches during the day to save cooking time for the last three days. This evening, we were going to enter the campground early and relax a bit with some wine we brought from home. In our calculation, we will be entering Route 66 tomorrow morning, so it is perfect time to celebrate our journey.







Sumi found this campground in Litchfield, Illinois, located near Lake Lou Yaeger. She said there are fish that eat men's testicles. This fish is from the Amazon but must've gotten loose in this lake somehow. Pacu fish killed two men in Papua New Guinea by biting off the testicles. This is from the internet so whether it's true or not, the lake has a story and Sumi excitedly headed us toward the lake. She seemed to want to catch the fish with me as bait. I'm not sure if my testicles would stay intact until I bring the fish up.




 

After driving winding country road for some time, we found the lake Lou Yeager. It was large and had many facilities for water sports. The campground… was not so great. Campground for tent was so-called 'primitive' site, which means there're no amenities like water or even barbecue grill. The fee was $12, but it was dirty. There was no shower, not to mention even a water faucet. People had left remnants of campfire here and there. Normally, there are sites with shower and sink even if a section of campground is primitive. Primitive camping can be fun but not for tonight. We needed some water and barbecue grill. The decisive moment was when we found cockroaches crawling all over the bathroom stalls. Sumi yelled 'Pass!' and instead looking for another campground, we decided to get on Route 66 right away. Yes, let's go! But, how about barbecue….?   





Left turn, right turn, after thirty minutes or so of driving, we reached a road end with brightly setting sun almost blinding us.
"After a left turn on that corner, it is Route 66!" I said after checking on the map.
Then, Sumi said, "It feels strange."
The road to Route 66 was shining so brightly, we couldn't even make out where the end was. Like Sumi said, strange lights seemed to wave at us from the end.





Advancing toward the end of light, we passed an old railroad track. We already knew what this meant. This railroad track, running almost parallel to Route 66, is part of America's great old railway system that stretches across the country, transporting goods between the East and the West, solemnly and quietly, hidden behind the automobile culture of America. If there's a railroad track, there would be Route 66. Then, as we made the left turn, the shining light moved to our right, and in front, there was a brand new road, wide and clear. It was Route 66. There was something moving about this. "This is an important moment!" Sumi shouted. I also cheered on. We yelled together, "Wow!, Yeah!, Whoo-hoo! Route 66! We've arrived!" We even clenched fists and threw our arms up in the air. But the road was really, very incredibly empty and quiet. No other cars on the route, if any, no one was shouting as we were. They all looked as though the sky would fall. We must be the only ones excited about Route 66 in ten miles radius. "This is disappointing," I said. "Why? it's great!" Sumi replied. So we shouted again some more. We give the road a meaning to travel. "Whaoo! Yahoo! Eeek, eek!" I took pictures of anything and everything that said 'Route 66'. Sumi yelled, "Oh, there's really Route 66 sign on the street!" Unfortunately, I missed that while looking at other signs on the road.





Entering Route 66
Litchfield, Illinois
August, 29th, 4:30 PM

Picture above is the official signage for Route 66 in Illinois. 1930-1940 means it was Route 66 during those years. Route 66 is a very old road that connected Chicago to LA passing through eight different states(built in 1926). Therefore, according to each states' plan, some sections were rerouted or combined with other roads. In other words, this sign reconnects the old Route 66, giving pointers in the entire route's history. If you made a turn at a fork and don't see this sign again in 10 miles or so, you can safely assume that you've made a wrong turn.



The pictures below are the road signs and store signs of the Old Route 66 in Litchfield.



 







After driving some more on the Route 66, we did find out we were not the only ones yelling and shouting about the route. The ones that are still driving on this road which is still as empty and quiet as we first got on, and going slower than the speed limit, then they are probably Route 66 travelers. If the back of the car was filled with stuff, then definitely Route 66 travelers. It may not appear as so on the surface, but all traveling on this road, whether living in America or not, are filled with modern American nostalgia and shouting about it.





The gas station with above pump was opened in 1926- the same year Route 66 opened. The last day the pump was working, gas price was $5.74 per 8.88 gallons. Looking at the old gas pump, I thought about everything that modern life had thrown out for the last 100 years. The things that were trendy at the time but outdated by two to three generations. Things that are simply forgotten. Roads that were just put aside with all these things still on them. So it naturally became the symbol of nostalgic memories of last 100 years of modern history. It felt like the beginning of our Route 66.



Pictures below are landscapes between Litchfield and Hamel in Illinois.









   
After excitedly driving on Route 66 for some time, we got to a motel called Inkeeper in Hamel. We looked for lodgings and campgrounds for a while and found this motel right by the road. It was run by a nice Indian family and it even had a barbecue grill for the guests in the back. 


8:30 PM. Inkeeper motel was like a beach on a resort. The surface of a small lake outside the window was wavering in warm breeze. Soothing moon light, the kind Indian family, and their children's laughter made me feel very relaxed. While barbecuing the steak, I didn't feel like we were right by a highway, but at a peaceful beach somewhere in the Maldives.




Steak and beer.
I normally don't drink Miller, but today, I'm drinking this, because of the design on the can. Reminds me of the slogan, "Live to Ride, Ride to Live." Perfectly fitting to celebrate our entering Route 66. From tomorrow, it's the actual beginning of our history museum tour of the route. Cheers! Route 66!  











Jingoogk's original blog is in Korean. You can read it here
http://blog.naver.com/hwangjinkook/220139772008